Celery root remoulade

This is the Cinderella of salads. Take one plain (if you’re generous) or ugly (if you’re honest) root vegetable, basement-dwelling sibling to an elegant sister, strip off the gnarly beige attire and dress it up in French fashion. And, voila, something magical happens. Okay, maybe not magical, but tasty. Celery root, the least attractive member […]

Chili (the secret recipe)

When a friend innocently asked me for my chili recipe I froze, then I panicked. Then I lied. “It’s a secret.” That was simply boneheaded and I apologize. There is no secret to this chili, just a mystery. A mystery because I have been making it for so long that I hardly think about what […]

Dried beans, fast and slow

Dried beans are great to have on hand and are just about as easy as canned. If you plan ahead. If you have some time, cover dried kidney beans with at least three times their volume of water leave on counter overnight. Drain. If you’re in a hurry, put dried beans in a deep pot […]

Early summer slaw

The Brits call it the weekend, North Americans call it a weekend (with a weaker end) and the French call it le weekend, although their language mavens try to get them to say fin de la semaine. Call it what you like, the last one was glorious and I can hardly wait till Friday to […]

How to make your own buttermilk

No buttermilk? No problem. Here’s a quick substitute that works like a charm (and you don’t have leftover buttermilk going to waste in the fridge). Simply add one tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice (I use white wine vinegar, but plain old white vinegar will do) to one cup of milk. Let it stand five […]

Dutch baby bunnies

The annual plan to have rabbit for Easter dinner fell victim once again to the family veto. They don’t know what they’re missing; I love the firm, white meat, which, done properly, is a great change from other white meats like chicken or pork. This year, however, I at least got the word bunny on […]

Boil fish

“No, no, no” the waitress said forcibly removing the fork from L’s tightening grip. “We don’t do it like that.” We are sitting at Sip Sip, the dune-top lunch spot on Harbour Island in the Bahamas, and, up till now, everything has been perfect. The view from the terrace is right off a postcard, the […]