Joe Beef’s ‘Gentleman steak sauce’

January 29, 2012

Half a week of temporary bachelorhood has restored Meats to its rightful place before Roots and Leaves. For three whole days fruits and vegetables were relegated to their proper roles – hidden in sauces and condiments – while steaks, chops and roasts have had the run of the kitchen. For three whole days the bananas turned brown on the counter, the leafy greens in the refrigerator drawer were left to their leafy green devices and the word “folate” wasn’t heard once, not even in jest.

When I was a real bachelor, things were a little different: clothes were coordinated by odour rather than colour; the local Pizza Pizza franchisee depended on me to pay his mortgage; and, the Leaning Tower of Beer Bottles that occupied fully one-quarter of my one-room apartment was my idea of art.

These days, I favour a more civilized pick-up-your-dirty-socks kind of bachelorhood (think English Country House rather than Frat House). Knives and forks enjoy full employment, beer is poured into glasses (or mugs if it happens to be breakfast),  the empties neatly stacked out of sight. And, every steak, like the pan-fried beauty pictured above, has its sauce.

(The tomatoes, by the way, are strictly decorative.)

I have nothing against a good old jar of HP Sauce. Lord knows, it was one of the main sources of nutrition during the boiled-mince-and-potatoes days of my childhood. Somehow, though, buying a big bottle of steak sauce – like ordering take-out – seems like a dangerous step backwards for a bachelor. The condiment aisle is a slippery slope down to the frozen food section; a little too much of the sauce and I might find myself in front of the TV, scarfing down Hungry Man Dinners in my underwear.

Best to maintain control and stick to the you-can-only-eat-it-if-you-make-it rule. Otherwise, I might end up reverting to the days when I considered Doritos a major food group.

Thank goodness for the folks at Joe Beef – they understand what a bachelor needs. This recipe for “gentleman” (sic) steak sauce was adapted from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, which has to be one of the most entertaining cookbooks ever.

Here’s what the “cookbook of sorts” has to say about this addictive condiment: “We champion this generalization: gentlemen eat their beef with steak sauce – the brown type, thick and sharp.”

And, I might add, they take the time to open the curtains every morning, even if it is just going to get dark again in a few hours.

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Granola bars

January 8, 2012

Well, it’s finally happened: we are eating homemade granola bars. Next, we’ll be “harvesting” neighbourhood squirrels for stew or buying an electric car. But, before the tie-dyed crowd starts weaving daisies into my hair, I want to assure everyone that it was my wife who made these. Not me.

However, I do have to admit that, as far as granola bars go (and I’m sure that, wherever granola bars go, it’s by public transit), these aren’t bad. Chewy and crunchy, not too sweet, not too tart. After having one I almost feel like raising organic chickens in the backyard or reading a Margaret Atwood novel.

Come to think of it, I’ve always wondered what it would be like to wear socks with sandals.

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Twenty-one nice places to eat and drink

January 6, 2012

When people I only see at Christmas parties lie to me and tell me I’ve lost weight, I usually laugh and say “Don’t worry, I’ll find it again.” Oddly enough, no one said it this season. Looking at this list of just some of places where I ate while travelling in 2011, I’m starting to understand why. Keep in mind, this list does not include restaurants in my home city, not to mention pizza deliveries.

With the exception of two places (a pub with an amazing selection of beer in Washington – I didn’t have the food so I can’t judge – and a restaurant in Istanbul with so-so food but a spectacular view – The picture above of the Blue Mosque was the view from our table), these, in no real order, are places I would not hesitate to eat at again. In fact, I can hardly wait.

The list…

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Golden beet salad

December 18, 2011

We’re having a little dinner party tonight for some old friends who are moving away and a few others who either want to wish them well or, were simply attracted by the promise of free food. Either way, this is one of the dishes they’re getting  (along with Italian onion soup and a roasted pork loin stuffed with spinach and pancetta) and it’s so good that I wanted to share it right away rather than let it stack up with the dozens of other recipes I keep meaning to post. I promised Italian food but this salad, made with grainy Dijon mustard and maple vinegar, might be a stretch. Maybe if I say it in Italian – insalata di barbabietola – I might get away with it.

Golden beet salad

Serves six

2 pounds golden beets

1 teaspoon grainy mustard

4 tablespoons maple vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar (optional)

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil plus a little more to drizzle over beets before roasting

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 400 F

Wash beets and trim tops if required. Place each beet on a square of foil wrap large enough to wrap the whole beet. Drizzle olive oil over the beets and seal the foil. Place in the oven for 45 minutes or until you can slide a blade easily into the beet. Remove and set aside to cool. When cool, cut the skin off and dice the beets into quarter inch squares.

Meanwhile, combine mustard, maple vinegar, sugar (if using) and whisk to combine. Add olive oil while whisking. Toss the beets with the dressing and serve at room temperature. Enjoy.


Onion soup

December 5, 2011

This is another recipe from my new favourite cookbook, Cucina Povera, although it’s so simple you hardly need a recipe at all. All you need are caramelized red onions, beef stock, some day-old bread and cheese. This soup, carabaccia, in Italian (just about everything sounds better in Italian), may be the precursor to the more-famous French onion soup, but feels much lighter because the pecorino isn’t as heavy as Gruyère. It makes an excellent first course or light lunch.

Carabaccia (onion soup)

Adapted from Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Johns

Serves Four

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds red onions, sliced very thinly

6 cups beef or veal stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 thick slices of Italian bread, toasted

2 1/2 cups pecorino cheese, coarsely grated

Set your oven to 400 F.

In a large pot over medium heat add olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the onions and reduce heat to low. Cook the onions for 20-30 minutes until they are caramelized, stirring regularly.

As the onions are cooking heat the beef stock in another pot. When the onions are caramelized, add the stock, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Place a slice of toasted bread in each of four oven-proof soup bowls. Place the bowls on a cookie tray, add the soup and top with 1/4 of the cheese. Place the tray in the oven for 5 minutes and bake until the cheese has browned and formed a crust.


Gnudi

November 12, 2011

Sometimes the timing works out just right. Like this week, when I suddenly and unexpectedly found myself with lots of time on my hands just as a shipment of 11 new cookbooks arrived from Amazon. Among the 11 was this little gem, Cucina Povera. An absorbing mix of short essays, photographs and 60 plus recipes subtitled, Tuscan Peasant Cooking, it is fast becoming one of my favourite cookbooks. The recipes are simple, elegant and easy to follow. I may just cook them all.

I am not sure how the people featured in the book like being called peasants, but the recipes I have tried so far could fetch a good price at any high-end Italian restaurant I’ve been to. Like this one, for these creamy, delicate spinach and ricotta dumplings – gnudi, served with a simple and fresh-tasting tomato sauce.

If this is food for the poor, the rich don’t know what they’re missing.

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Tomato sauce

November 12, 2011

This sauce is so simple and so fresh tasting, even when you use canned tomatoes as I do this time of year. Use the best canned tomatoes available, preferably San Marzano. I don’t worry about making the sauce too smooth.

Tomato sauce

Adapted from Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Alberts

Makes 6 cups

3 tablepsoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped or, 1 28 ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, minced

1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced

Seat salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the olive oil and onions. Sauté until the onions are soft (2-3 minutes). Add garlic and stir. Add tomatoes, parsley and basil. Stir and decrease heat. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Puree in a food processor or, with an immersion blender.


Dark and stormy

August 27, 2011

It was a dark and stormy night. At least that was the case at the Jazz Standard where we were holed up waiting out the long hours until our early morning plane would take us safely home to our loved ones who were, I am certain, desperately waiting for our arrival.

I know what you’re saying – “How can it be dark and stormy inside a legendary Manhattan jazz club?”

Well, you’ve obviously never been to the Jazz Standard if you have to ask a question like that. The Dark and Stormy is a beguiling mix of dark rum and ginger beer and is the national drink of Bermuda and the Jazz Standard, where it is served in tall glasses that just seem to keep coming and coming.

Anyway, there we were “stuck” in Manhattan, my two friends and me,  one Friday night last March. We called our lonely families and told them not to worry, we’d make do. We bivouacked at the W Hotel on Lexington (I know, Midtown – the hardship. We were strong) and trekked  all the way down to Prune in the East Village for a little sustenance.  (we  survived, I swear,  almost entirely on marrow bones and perhaps a roasted chicken and a litre or two of red wine.) Afterwards, we beat a hasty retreat.

But, then what to do? It was dark and, if not stormy, scary. We were like babes in the woods or, at least, the mid-40s. We decided to hide out some where and wait it out. But where?

Thank God for Google. We were finally able to find refuge at the Jazz Standard under a place called Blue Smoke (order the ribs). We breathed a collective sigh of relief and settled in for an evening of  James Blood Ulmer and the Memphis Blood Blues band (featuring Vernon Reid)I know, I know – so much blood.

But, seriously, we got through it and I give all the credit to the Dark and Stormy. So, for my friends stuck in New York as Hurricane Irene bears down on this dark and stormy night, a little something to get you through. It worked for me.

Dark and Stormy

2 ounces Gosling’s Black Seal rum

8 ounces good ginger beer

Lemon or lime wedge (optional)

Pour rum and ginger beer in a tall glass over ice. Try to enjoy, despite the weather


Maple baked beans

April 9, 2011

As I don my rugged field coat, I know I am prepared for the arduous journey before me. I am heading upriver to check my trap line. I have packed provisions for the trip and my trusty canine is by my side, eager to start. I am prepared for the rough trail and I am determined to live off the land, alerted to game by my dog’s low growls. As I embark, the harsh wind whips at my face, the landscape is enveloped in a strange, discomfiting silence. But, bravely, I push on…

My adored, if somewhat nosy, wife, L, is reading that paragraph over my shoulder and insists that I “come clean.” So, for the sake of matrimonial harmony, let me start again:

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Caramelized corn with mint

February 27, 2011

Sex is good, but not as good as fresh sweet corn.

– Garrison Keillor

Hmm. I think maybe Garrison Keillor has been spending too many lonely nights up at Lake Wobegon or, perhaps I just need to find a different farm stand to buy corn from next summer.

But, without going quite as far as Mr. Keillor, I will admit that there is something special about fresh sweet corn, prepared the day it was picked and eaten outdoors with friends and family, good barbecue and just a few wasps buzzing around to remind you that nothing this side of heaven is perfect.

I don’t know who buys  the “fresh” corn available right now in those little cellophane-wrapped packages of anemic, plasticky cobs, which were definitely not picked today or yesterday or, maybe not even last week. Desperately lonely people, I suppose, if Mr. Keillor’s hypothesis is to be believed.

For those of us who choose to wait, there is something to get us through till summer and it too comes wrapped in plastic. When I first read this recipe for frozen corn, I was dubious. It wasn’t till I finally made it that I realized just how good frozen corn can be.  Luisa Weiss of The Wednesday Chef was pretty confident it would change the way I think about corn. And she was right. Here’s what she said:

“But that corn. That corn! It was the star, the bright and shining thing on my plate that actually made me smile as I ate, because it has been far too long since something as wonderful, as cheap and quick and as special as this unassuming little side dish came along, and in one fell swoop that corn made me fall in love – in love! with frozen corn!”

Now that I think of it, she sounds a little bit like Garrison Keillor.

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