Pecan caramel cheesecake

November 27, 2009

This is officially my all-time favourite dessert. Combining pecans, caramel and dreamy rich cheesecake has got to be close to illegal it’s so good.

I am having trouble writing with my mouth full so, I’ll cut straight to the recipe, which comes from chow.com. Note: I omitted the salt, which I am sure would have made this even more sinfully delicious, but I was raised Presbyterian and deep down I know that something this satisfying must be endangering my immortal soul. Leaving out the salt makes me feel I have a tiny shot at redemption.


Have on hand: crostini

November 26, 2009

Crostini is Italian for “little crust,” in our house it’s translated as “why are we eating bread when we could be eating crostini?”

In theory, I make crostini with left-over baguettes that would otherwise be thrown out and serve them to guests with expensive wine and cheeses.

But the truth is, crostini in our house rarely makes it off the cooling rack. Teenagers, especially 16-year-old boys, think it’s fast food and I often find myself making crostini with fresh whole grain baguettes because it’s a surefire way to get fibre into my son’s diet, which otherwise consists mostly of fructose as far as I can tell.

Crostini really are better made with stale bread, which is easier to slice very thinly. Drizzle the bread with a little olive oil and bake at 400 F until they are golden and crunchy.  When I manage to rescue a few before they disappear in the Gaping Maw, I like them with really old cheddar and a dollop of curried raisin jelly.


Lobster poutine

November 22, 2009

This week’s New Yorker (the food issue) features a piece by Calvin Trillin poking fun at “Quebec’s Funniest Food,” which is, of course, poutine.

I am not a big fan of defining a people by the food they eat, let alone mocking them, but poutine seems to make Americans laugh the way  we all really should be laughing at bacon double cheeseburgers.

Let’s give Canada the last laugh this time with a recipe that takes poutine from the ridiculous (admit it, cheese curds and gravy on French fries is a bit funny) to the sublime.

I first tasted this poutine about two years ago at an Ottawa restaurant run by a family originally from Newfoundland.  Matching lobster and mascarpone cheese makes this a rich and delicious dish that easily crosses culinary borders.

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French fries

November 22, 2009

The trick to great French fries is to fry them twice; first for five minutes at a lower temperature  and then again at high heat.

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A soup with no name

November 16, 2009

Roasted cauliflower soup with smoked paprika

A friend of mine who used to work in a hotel had a very odd job: naming the soup. I am sure he did other things as well, but each day he had to taste and name whatever the chef had put into the stock pot (my friend had some real reservations about some of the things that went into that pot, but that’s a story for another day). He didn’t know much about soup and would pick labels that were seasonal and hinted vaguely at the ingredients but didn’t make any promises. I seem to recall names like “Spring Vegetable Medley” or “Summer Surprise.”

I was thinking about him the other day when I cobbled together a soup from a few not-quite-right ingredients I had at hand: the wrong kind of stock, a cauliflower that had seen better days, not quite enough cream, a couple of small onions and some spice.

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Southern fried chicken

November 12, 2009

Fried chicken

Whenever I think of not eating “right,” my mind immediately heads south. Maybe it’s all the barbecue or the bacon or the fact that southerners use gravy on just about everything, including breakfast. Or, maybe it’s because the food is just so good, I know instinctively that it can’t be good for me.

But, whatever the reason, when I have the urge to eat bad, I head straight for the land of cotton and crackling. I’ll have mine Dixie fried, please.

So it was last Sunday that I found myself  hauling out the deep fryer to make a heart-stopping pile of southern fried chicken. It was so good that even my 13-year-old-almost-vegetarian ate it (but only after I told her it came from Kentucky).

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Duck breast with raspberry-port sauce

November 8, 2009

Duck (plated2)

I am not sure why we don’t eat more duck; it’s juicy, it’s lean (once most of the fat layer is rendered in the cooking process) and it’s easy to make, especially the breast.

Except for the time the whole bird I was roasting on the barbecue rotisserie caught fire (there is so much fat at just under the skin that they make great torches; mine burned for 20 minutes), I have had great success with duck.

This recipe is tried and true and it’s easy enough for a weeknight dinner and elegant enough for guests. Fortunately, it does not call for flambé.

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We’re eating more beets

November 3, 2009

Beetsjar2

“You’re going to give those away, right?” L asked as I stood admiring the row of jars, jewels really, still hot from the canner. I had been expecting some resistance to the notion of a crowd of pickled beets lined up in the cold cellar just waiting to sneak themselves onto the menu and into the mouths of my unsuspecting family. But, I hadn’t been prepared for outright rejection.

We generally have an unspoken understanding in our house about what I am allowed to serve to others and what I must eat alone. I am the sole consumer of liver, for example.  Over the years I have managed to sneak the odd mushroom on to L’s plate and lamb has made limited dining-room appearances. But, it’s still a tough venue for collard greens.

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Goat cheese stuffed quail with pomegranate glaze

November 1, 2009

Quail2

I find quail a little bit intimidating because I really don’t know how to eat them. There isn’t a whole lot of meat to begin with and picking out all the flavourful flesh is difficult without getting your hands into the action.

Fresh quail are cooked fast and hot in a 500 F oven for about 20 minutes total. I made them for a slightly unusual Saturday lunch for my family and stuffed them with a little goat cheese mixed with chopped cooked bacon, salt and pepper. You don’t need much; these birds are small.

I made a simple marinade of equal amounts (a couple of tablespoons) olive oil, honey and pomegranate juice mixed with a little chopped garlic and  a tablespoon or so of freshly ground cumin to accent the quail’s slight gaminess. (I adapted this marinade from a recipe Mark Bittman published on the New York Times. He used orange juice instead of pomegranate and didn’t stuff the birds.)

I washed and salted 6 quail, rubbed them inside and out with olive oil and salt,   marinated them for 20 minutes or so and then reserved the  marinade to  glaze half way through cooking.

I stuffed the quail with the goat cheese and bacon mixture and arranged them close together in a small oven-proof dish. They baked for 20 minutes or so until they were done but still pink.

Quail is best a little rare like duck. I served  it with wild rice and some sauteed mushrooms.  We all used our fingers.


A trickless treat

October 31, 2009

pumpkin seeds

My sweet tooth fell out years ago and my favourite part of Halloween has nothing to do with the high-fructose corn syrup that will have my daughter on a high-fructose high for the next week or so (unless the dog gets the candy again, in which case we get low-fructose histrionics). Halloween just wouldn’t be Halloween without toasted pumpkin seeds.

I am eating them right now, less than an hour after picking them out of the slimy innards of our now-illuminated jack-o-lantern.

Just pick the slippery seeds out of the pumpkin guts, give them a good rinse and remove any pumpkin flesh. Put the oven on to 325 F.  Dry the clean seeds on a towel for a few minutes and put them in a bowl to coat with a little olive oil.  Place them on cookie sheet in a single layer and sprinkle with salt. Bake them for about 20 minutes or until they are golden brown. Eat them while they’re hot.

Better than Smarties any day.