Posts Tagged ‘onions’

Onion soup

December 5, 2011

This is another recipe from my new favourite cookbook, Cucina Povera, although it’s so simple you hardly need a recipe at all. All you need are caramelized red onions, beef stock, some day-old bread and cheese. This soup, carabaccia, in Italian (just about everything sounds better in Italian), may be the precursor to the more-famous French onion soup, but feels much lighter because the pecorino isn’t as heavy as Gruyère. It makes an excellent first course or light lunch.

Carabaccia (onion soup)

Adapted from Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Johns

Serves Four

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds red onions, sliced very thinly

6 cups beef or veal stock

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 thick slices of Italian bread, toasted

2 1/2 cups pecorino cheese, coarsely grated

Set your oven to 400 F.

In a large pot over medium heat add olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the onions and reduce heat to low. Cook the onions for 20-30 minutes until they are caramelized, stirring regularly.

As the onions are cooking heat the beef stock in another pot. When the onions are caramelized, add the stock, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Place a slice of toasted bread in each of four oven-proof soup bowls. Place the bowls on a cookie tray, add the soup and top with 1/4 of the cheese. Place the tray in the oven for 5 minutes and bake until the cheese has browned and formed a crust.

Tomato sauce

November 12, 2011

This sauce is so simple and so fresh tasting, even when you use canned tomatoes as I do this time of year. Use the best canned tomatoes available, preferably San Marzano. I don’t worry about making the sauce too smooth.

Tomato sauce

Adapted from Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Alberts

Makes 6 cups

3 tablepsoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped or, 1 28 ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, minced

1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced

Seat salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the olive oil and onions. Sauté until the onions are soft (2-3 minutes). Add garlic and stir. Add tomatoes, parsley and basil. Stir and decrease heat. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Puree in a food processor or, with an immersion blender.

Poulet Provençal

October 2, 2010

It feels like capitulation to turn the furnace on so soon, despite the fact the first cold of the season has made its way into the house – a sniffling, hacking reminder to put a big pot of chicken soup on the weekend to-do list.

The soup can wait till tomorrow. Today’s task is to warm up the house without succumbing to the inevitability of central heating. There is still hope for an Indian Summer and, if luck is with us, the heat will stay off until November.

So, baking all day it is (cookies, anyone?). And, who knows, the warmth emanating from the kitchen might draw the strange teenage mole creatures from their lairs. The cookies might loosen them up enough to talk instead of grunt.  But let’s not get overly optimistic.

Later on, crank up the heat a little and make a dish that’s perfect for this cusp between the seasons – a fall braise that uses the last of the home-grown tomatoes (they become super sweet) to keep it bright and summery. The subtle herbes de Provence and a little fennel seed add  a surprising depth of flavour to the chicken.  It’s both hearty and light. Serve it with a light red wine and eat in the kitchen where it’s still warm.

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