Make your own preserved lemons

February 20, 2011

Maybe it’s some atavistic need to fight off mid-winter scurvy or just a bright yellow middle finger to the bleak and frozen landscape, but I crave the taste of lemons these days.

Nothing brightens up a winter meal more than a jolt of citrus and, believe it or not, the most intense lemon flavour comes out of a jar. People around the Mediterranean have been using this simple method to preserve lemons for millennia and, once you’ve tasted them, it’s easy to see why. A month marinating in nothing but salt and their own juice gives lemons a supercharged lemony punch.  Use them with roast vegetables or make a roast chicken that will become your new standard  or, with any number of North African dishes. Here are some more uses of preserved lemons.

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Potato and leek soup

February 13, 2011

Slowly but surely, as the years whiz by, I am learning a thing or two. For example, I think I have finally driven into my thick skull the notion that making a grocery list first will prevent me from having to go back to the store for more ingredients. Three times.

I have also learned that it is not wise to paint your stairs the same colour as your cat. Cats are noble beasts and do not feel compelled to get out of the way.

And, it has finally dawned on me that Saturday is not really a day off, it is simply a day when you work for free. Mostly, my Saturdays are spent as a grocery delivery boy, a cranky chauffeur and a superbly unqualified handyman (though I am proud to announce that the cat flap was successfully installed and with minimum bloodshed, not that His Royal Highness The Cat is the least bit grateful).

Recently, it has occurred to me that days spent lining up at cash registers, cursing a conspiracy of stop lights and pretending to be qualified to operate electric saws are not days to be contemplating complicated lunches. Which is why the recipe below isn’t for, say,  lobster bisque. See, I’m learning.

Fortunately, I have also discovered that a little cream, like a little bacon, can elevate the simple into the sublime. And a little cream is just what’s needed on a hectic winter weekend. This busy-Saturday soup is fast, filling and full of flavour (and just a little cream).  Just remember to pick up the leeks on the first trip to the store. And, be careful on the stairs.

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Easy barbecued pork ribs

February 6, 2011

Part three of Super Bowls and Plates.

This year’s football feast:

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Guacamole

February 6, 2011

Part two of Super Bowls and Plates.

This year’s football feast:

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Grilled chipotle chicken wings, blue cheese dip

February 6, 2011

This is Part One of Super Bowls and Plates, a good excuse to have a party.

Once a year we pretend to like football so we can have a mid-winter gorge on tavern fare. Last year I made Scotch eggs, a crowd favourite.

This year’s football feast:

So, enjoy! And remind me again who’s playing?

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Tomato ketchup

January 30, 2011

I’ve been on the road so much lately that when I come home the first thing I do is look around for the check-in counter.

Like all seasoned business travelers, I have my fair share of horror stories – roller-coaster plane rides, maniacal taxi drivers who scare you to death and then won’t take credit cards and hotel rooms where I have been positive I saw something move out of the corner of my eye.

This week it was L’s turn to travel and mine to stay at home with the kids so they could avoid all contact with their father for a change and, though I’m not quite sure why, her travel-gone-awry story is more disturbing than most.

“How was the hotel?”

“Bad.”

“How bad?”

“So bad that when I ordered breakfast in my room it came with one of those little room-service ketchup bottles and it was half empty.”

Yuck. Like I said, I’m not really sure why that’s so off-putting, but it is. Those little ketchup bottles are supposed to be personal-sized and they are supposed to have that little hermetically sealed plastic wrapper that takes forever to get off until you finally break down and use your teeth. Or, they are yours to take home just like the little personal-sized bottles of shampoo or the little personal-sized bars of soap (we have about 40 pounds of soap under our bathroom sink. I’m thinking of a yard sale).

You shouldn’t have to share your personal-sized ketchup bottle with anyone, let alone a stranger.

It’s not like there’s a ketchup shortage. Every fridge door on the continent is home a giant plastic jug of the stuff just waiting to rescue that experimental meatloaf you’ll end up regretting or, the vulcanized scrambled eggs the kids will make for your birthday breakfast-in-bed surprise. North Americans consume hundreds of millions, if not billions, of pounds of ketchup every year. According to one source,  McDonald’s alone uses 250 million pounds of the stuff every year just in the United States (made with roughly 57 million pounds of sugar, by the way).

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M&M cookies

January 16, 2011

The holidays are over. Our decadent vacation in the sun is over. New Year’s resolutions are still in full effect.

Oh, well. L made these and I can’t resist. Happy Sunday!

M&M Cookies

Adapted from a recipe at mms.com

1 cup butter, softened

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 cup M&M’S (mini or regular) milk or dark chocolate candy

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Try not to eat all the candy before you make the cookies (this is hard).

Cream butter with both sugars in a large bowl until mixture is light and fluffy. And egg and vanilla and beat to combine. Stir in candy. Using a teaspoon  and drop a heaping spoon of dough two inches apart on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake for 10 to 13 minutes or, until edges are just starting to burn. Don’t over bake – you want them to remain soft in the middle. Cool for a few minutes on a wire rack and enjoy! You can store them in a covered container, but there won’t be any left.


Island time

January 7, 2011

There’s nothing quite as restorative as some time in the sunshine. Good food helps as well.

We had plenty of both during our extended Christmas stay on the West Indian island of Antigua. Now, I’m so relaxed, it’s hard to get moving again.

A few culinary highlights of our trip:

The Antiguan black pineapple. A skinnier version of the one we’re used to in North American supermarkets, it is also much sweeter. You can buy them at roadside stands in the lush, south part of the Island where they are grown or, you can find them at the public market in the capital, St. John’s. Alas, they don’t export these juicy  little gems.

The beef carpaccio at Sheer Rocks in St. Mary’s Parish on the south-west coast. It was sublime and the location –  a stepped terrace perched on the edge of a cliff – is outstanding for a special night out. The evening we were there, the Caribbean was rough and it was amazing to watch the surf pound the rocks by candlelight.

The roti at Roti King in St. John’s. We asked a policewoman for directions when we got lost looking for a Caribbean restaurant the guide-book recommended (turns out it had closed), and she told us we were headed to the wrong place and promptly walked us several blocks to Roti King, the place people in the know go to for lunch.

As you can see, it is nothing fancy and we may not have ventured in on our own if we hadn’t had such a glowing recommendation. The service was not particularly friendly but the place was packed with Antiguans, not tourists, and the smell of the curry was compelling.

The rotis were huge, cheap and delicious. I had beef, L had chicken (the kids, of course, ate at one of the two Subways, which have recently invaded the island). I can’t wait to go back for seconds.

Now, back to reality (and the kitchen).


Probably not your grandmother’s matzo ball soup

December 9, 2010

From the better-late-than-never department, Happy Hanukkah!

Trying to figure out which recipe to use for my first attempt at matzo ball soup was more than a little daunting. Just figuring out the proper spelling is hard enough. There are thousands of recipes (each handed down from a grandmother, it seems) in cookbooks and online and, as far as I can tell, each and every one of them is different and most of the claim to be the only way to make authentic matzo ball soup.

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Preserved pears with brandy

December 5, 2010

Last week, the City of Vancouver began implementing an ambitious plan to plant orchards in city parks. The apple, cherry, plum and pear trees will be cared for by young people from nearby schools and are part of a long-term project to create and edible urban ecosystem.

It’s a great idea. Let’s turn all our parks into productive as well as recreational spaces.  I have my doubts, however, about the use of child labour.

Vancouver’s arboriculture manager, Bill Manning, quoted in the Vancouver Sun, says: “We have kids coming out and planting and taking ownership and that is key to making this work.”

I distinctly recall a number of “taking ownership” conversations in our own house over the years, chiefly around things like walking the dog, feeding the dog and the cats, weeding the garden, bringing dirty dishes back to the kitchen, shoveling the snow and doing homework, just to name a few.

If we had relied on our kids to take “ownership” we would now be facing animal cruelty charges, eating nettle salads off paper plates, using ice-climbing gear to get down the front steps and preparing our beloved offspring for minimum-wage careers at the local call centre.

Good luck, Vancouver.

I note that Mr. Manning did not suggest for a second that the children would actually eat the fruit. That would require too much suspension of disbelief. If my own children are typical (and all the other parents down at the support group suggest they are), growing fruit is a waste of time. Growing potato chip trees would be more like it (especially if they were those really good flavours like ketchup or dill pickle).

Every week, in a paroxysm of parental guilt, we load our shopping cart with fresh fruit so our children will be able to voluntarily eat at least eight servings a day. Hope springs eternal as we place bowls of apples, oranges, kiwis and pears in strategic spots throughout the house only to hear, time and time again, the classic call of the spoiled-rotten North American child in distress: “There is nothing to eat in this house!”

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