Archive for the 'Condiments and Sauces' Category

Joe Beef’s ‘Gentleman steak sauce’

January 29, 2012

Half a week of temporary bachelorhood has restored Meats to its rightful place before Roots and Leaves. For three whole days fruits and vegetables were relegated to their proper roles – hidden in sauces and condiments – while steaks, chops and roasts have had the run of the kitchen. For three whole days the bananas turned brown on the counter, the leafy greens in the refrigerator drawer were left to their leafy green devices and the word “folate” wasn’t heard once, not even in jest.

When I was a real bachelor, things were a little different: clothes were coordinated by odour rather than colour; the local Pizza Pizza franchisee depended on me to pay his mortgage; and, the Leaning Tower of Beer Bottles that occupied fully one-quarter of my one-room apartment was my idea of art.

These days, I favour a more civilized pick-up-your-dirty-socks kind of bachelorhood (think English Country House rather than Frat House). Knives and forks enjoy full employment, beer is poured into glasses (or mugs if it happens to be breakfast),  the empties neatly stacked out of sight. And, every steak, like the pan-fried beauty pictured above, has its sauce.

(The tomatoes, by the way, are strictly decorative.)

I have nothing against a good old jar of HP Sauce. Lord knows, it was one of the main sources of nutrition during the boiled-mince-and-potatoes days of my childhood. Somehow, though, buying a big bottle of steak sauce – like ordering take-out – seems like a dangerous step backwards for a bachelor. The condiment aisle is a slippery slope down to the frozen food section; a little too much of the sauce and I might find myself in front of the TV, scarfing down Hungry Man Dinners in my underwear.

Best to maintain control and stick to the you-can-only-eat-it-if-you-make-it rule. Otherwise, I might end up reverting to the days when I considered Doritos a major food group.

Thank goodness for the folks at Joe Beef – they understand what a bachelor needs. This recipe for “gentleman” (sic) steak sauce was adapted from The Art of Living According to Joe Beef, which has to be one of the most entertaining cookbooks ever.

Here’s what the “cookbook of sorts” has to say about this addictive condiment: “We champion this generalization: gentlemen eat their beef with steak sauce – the brown type, thick and sharp.”

And, I might add, they take the time to open the curtains every morning, even if it is just going to get dark again in a few hours.

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Tomato sauce

November 12, 2011

This sauce is so simple and so fresh tasting, even when you use canned tomatoes as I do this time of year. Use the best canned tomatoes available, preferably San Marzano. I don’t worry about making the sauce too smooth.

Tomato sauce

Adapted from Cucina Povera, by Pamela Sheldon Alberts

Makes 6 cups

3 tablepsoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, coarsely chopped

2 pounds fresh ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped or, 1 28 ounce can of whole San Marzano tomatoes, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley, minced

1 tablespoon fresh basil, minced

Seat salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the olive oil and onions. Sauté until the onions are soft (2-3 minutes). Add garlic and stir. Add tomatoes, parsley and basil. Stir and decrease heat. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Puree in a food processor or, with an immersion blender.

Easy barbecued pork ribs

February 6, 2011

Part three of Super Bowls and Plates.

This year’s football feast:

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Guacamole

February 6, 2011

Part two of Super Bowls and Plates.

This year’s football feast:

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Grilled chipotle chicken wings, blue cheese dip

February 6, 2011

This is Part One of Super Bowls and Plates, a good excuse to have a party.

Once a year we pretend to like football so we can have a mid-winter gorge on tavern fare. Last year I made Scotch eggs, a crowd favourite.

This year’s football feast:

So, enjoy! And remind me again who’s playing?

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Tomato ketchup

January 30, 2011

I’ve been on the road so much lately that when I come home the first thing I do is look around for the check-in counter.

Like all seasoned business travelers, I have my fair share of horror stories – roller-coaster plane rides, maniacal taxi drivers who scare you to death and then won’t take credit cards and hotel rooms where I have been positive I saw something move out of the corner of my eye.

This week it was L’s turn to travel and mine to stay at home with the kids so they could avoid all contact with their father for a change and, though I’m not quite sure why, her travel-gone-awry story is more disturbing than most.

“How was the hotel?”

“Bad.”

“How bad?”

“So bad that when I ordered breakfast in my room it came with one of those little room-service ketchup bottles and it was half empty.”

Yuck. Like I said, I’m not really sure why that’s so off-putting, but it is. Those little ketchup bottles are supposed to be personal-sized and they are supposed to have that little hermetically sealed plastic wrapper that takes forever to get off until you finally break down and use your teeth. Or, they are yours to take home just like the little personal-sized bottles of shampoo or the little personal-sized bars of soap (we have about 40 pounds of soap under our bathroom sink. I’m thinking of a yard sale).

You shouldn’t have to share your personal-sized ketchup bottle with anyone, let alone a stranger.

It’s not like there’s a ketchup shortage. Every fridge door on the continent is home a giant plastic jug of the stuff just waiting to rescue that experimental meatloaf you’ll end up regretting or, the vulcanized scrambled eggs the kids will make for your birthday breakfast-in-bed surprise. North Americans consume hundreds of millions, if not billions, of pounds of ketchup every year. According to one source,  McDonald’s alone uses 250 million pounds of the stuff every year just in the United States (made with roughly 57 million pounds of sugar, by the way).

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Maple planked pork with maple mustard glaze

October 12, 2010

Years ago, I worked at a small daily newspaper that, like all small dailies in that neck of the woods, produced an annual supplement called “Fall Colours”. The supplement, depending on the state of the economy, could run many pages, supported by local retailers anxious to convince people that the holiday shopping season begins the minute the leaves start to change.

Too bad it was in black and white. Page after page of autumnal scenes, all in shades of gray.  The actual “fall colours” were left entirely up to our readers’ imaginations. (For our Christmas Lights special the photographers had to search for trees and houses with only white lights so they would display well in black and white.) Somehow, it worked.

I still smile at this (almost two decades later) every autumn as I drive down a country road lined with maples in shades of fiery red and yellow. Our cottage is in the heart of a county famous for its maple syrup and the woods there are engulfed in the bright yellow of the sugar maples that dominate the forest. A little treat to be thankful for before the long,  gray winter ahead.

This tender pork roast, grilled on a maple plank that gives a hint of smoke and finished with a tangy cider vinegar and mustard glaze sweetened with maple syrup, is perfect for a fall day full of leafy colour.

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Nasturtium and walnut pesto

August 15, 2010

Nasturtiums, I am told, flower best in poor soil. They attract few pests, are generally happier when completely ignored and they tend to thrive under the unwatchful eye of even the worst gardeners.

Thank, God – this is a plant for me.

And, even better, they’re delicious.

I’ve often thrown a few nasturtium leaves in a mixed-greens salad for a bit of peppery bite and the edible flowers are great as a bright, somewhat exotic garnish. But this year’s crop is so large we could eat nothing but nasturtium salad between now and Labour Day and still have some on hand. Thank goodness for Google; one little search and presto, my problems are solved. Actually, I meant to say pesto, my problems are solved.

The spicy zip of nasturtium leaves combines with the earthy meatiness of walnuts to give this pesto some real flavour heft. Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese gives it a slightly creamy texture and a little saltiness. Quality olive oil and a clove or two of garlic round out this bright green pesto nicely. Use it as a quick pasta sauce, on pizza or, in any dish in which you would normally use basil pesto. Freeze it in ice-cube trays and then bag the cubes for use through the winter.

The first time you serve it, don’t say what it is and watch the surprised looks when folks discover it’s not basil. Then tell them how you slaved away in the garden all summer just so they could enjoy tasting it. They’ll believe you.

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Blueberry sauce

July 31, 2010

Even the most cynical teenager has a weakness. Finding that soft spot can be difficult, especially when they are at their worst – standing there with their arms crossed, refusing to make eye contact with what has to be the worst half of the worst set of parents on the entire planet, mumbling angry, monosyllabic answers to the most innocent questions. But, even then there is always something you can say that will make them smile despite themselves. That, of course, just makes them madder. But it’s fun. I’m told this anger is just teenage angst – an inevitable  biologically driven quest for independence; it’s evolutionary, out of their control because of the hormones coursing through their veins. It’s all perfectly normal.

Nonsense. I say it’s just a good old-fashioned lack of respect and they should all immediately be sent to military boarding schools where cold showers and tepid gruel will teach them a thing or two about just how lucky they were back at home even with the stupidest, most embarrassing parents in the world. We didn’t act like that when I was a teenager. Nosiree.

But L won’t let me send them to boarding school and, since I am determined to get to the lake and pick the wild blueberries from my very own wild blueberry bushes before the birds do, I am forced to resort to the only other tried-and-true parenting technique I know: Bribery.

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Chimichurri

July 18, 2010

Almost exactly 20 years ago, a boss gave me a copy of The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People. I am very proud of that book because it has never been opened. Not even a page. For all I know, it has an inscription that reads “For the young man who exemplifies each of these habits….blah, blah, blah.” But I doubt it; somehow I think eschewing self-help books is not one of the habits. My former boss must have read the book, however, as he avoided actually serving jail time and sped through the bankruptcy proceedings like a pro. (Not all my former bosses have been this lucky.)

Anyway, I have enough habits of my own, none of which will ever be in a book (unless it’s a book about highly peculiar people). One of those habits involves my choice of summer reading, which consists entirely of a winter’s worth of unread Vanity Fair magazines (burned ceremoniously at the end of the season in – you guessed it – The Bonfire of the Vanity Fairs) and cheap paperback novels.

And I mean cheap. The ones I pick tend to look like they’ve been read a million times, left out in the rain at least twice and used, on occasion, to prop up a sagging cottage deck.  Those are the kinds of books that can stand up to the rigours of hammock life or endure a trip to the swim raft with nothing but a ziplock bag between their battered pages and the Deep.

I’ve also developed a habit of  building our cottage menus around the theme of the book. There may not be a single highly effective person who does this, but we’ve had some pretty good cottage meals that we might not otherwise have tried (although, I don’t recommend very long books – the summer I read Paul Scott’s The Raj Quartet my family started to complain of curry fatigue. Novels set in medieval prisons are also a challenge).

This summer’s first book is a Nazi spy thriller, which might have led to a season of schnitzel and wursts (or worse), except that the book is set in Argentina and that means barbecued – grass fed and pampas grown – beef.  We’re a little short of pampas around here, but as luck would have it, I happen to have a freezer full of excellent grass-fed beef. Now, I’m just waiting for my mail-order gaucho outfit and I am all set.

No table in Argentina would be ready for dinner (which people don’t even start thinking about until 9 pm, according to my novel) without a bowl of chimichurri, the tangy, spicy green sauce for which there are as many recipes as there are Argentinians. At its most basic it is made from flat-leaf parsley, garlic, red wine vinegar, oil and a little chili but feel free to experiment. Some people even add tomatoes to make a red version of the sauce.

Here’s my version. Be careful, it can be habit forming.

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